Duncannon, PA – mile 1146 – 52.4% of the trail complete

Mike “Cool Ranch” and I have made good miles every day in what has been for the most part the easiest stretch of the trail so far. We’ve gone from Virginia to West Virginia to Maryland to Pennsylvania. We’ve enjoyed a lot of trail magic along the way.

July 4th – Zero Day in Front Royal

We ate at a diner for breakfast and a place called Spelunkers for dinner. It hardly rained at all. On the radar the rain was all around us. I’ve had few times when I was this disappointed about it not raining. We could have actually hiked today. Instead we lounged around the hotel and watched TV while I worked on my blog. There were some people setting off their own fireworks around town. It was nice to do nothing.

July 5th – Front Royal, VA to Rod Hollow Shelter
Total miles on AT – 23.6
Elevation gain – 3397ft
Elevation loss – 3465ft
Start time: 9:05am
Finish time: 7:25pm
Total time hiking : 8:40
Weather: sunny turning overcast, very warm, extremely humid

Mike got us a ride out of town by playing a magic trick. He put a handkerchief over his thumb and when a car came he pulled the handkerchief off revealing his hitchhiker thumb. It garnered us a ride immediately from a woman who worked nearby. I was fine anxiety-wise in the car, which is more often the case when a woman is driving.

Another one percent day, meaning we did more than one percent of the trail today. The terrain was the easiest I’ve experienced yet on the trail. It is was so humid all day that we were soaked through. The air is very still this evening and its suffocatingly warm in my tent.

Saw bear number ten today.

July 6th – Rod Hollow Shelter to David Lesser Memorial Shelter
Total miles on AT – 21.1
Elevation gain – 2743ft*
Elevation loss – 2213ft*
Start time: 8:00am
Finish time: 7:30pm
Total time hiking : 9:40
Weather: mostly sunny, hot, ungodly humid

We conquered “the roller coaster” today. “The roller coaster” is a set of ups and downs over a thirteen and a half mile stretch. The elevation figures for the day are way off because the guide doesn’t mark the elevation of every high and low point. It was rocky and slow going. I left at 8am and and it took me till 4:30pm to go 14 miles, and seven hours of actual hiking time.

Things got easier after the “roller coaster” but it was a very long day, the most hours I’ve put in in one day by a long shot. The heat and humidity were tough (Mike said it got up to 98 degrees) and like yesterday I drank a lot of water. Mike got in an hour before me, but he was pretty beat too. Harper’s Ferry tomorrow – the psychological halfway point. And finally out of Virginia for the first time since May 26th!

July 7th – David Lesser Memorial Shelter to Harpers Ferry, WV
Total miles on AT – 8.7
Elevation gain – 329ft
Elevation loss – 1216ft
Start time: 8:25am
Finish time: 12:25pm
Total time hiking : 3:30
Weather: hot and extremely humid

An easy jaunt into Harpers Ferry, which is considered the psychological halfway point of the AT. I got my picture taken at the ATC. I’m hiker number 1291 to be heading on a northbound thru-hike. Wow, doesn’t that make me feel insignificant. There are a lot of us.

I thought maybe Mike and I would head out of town, but we decided to stay at the campground in town and head out tomorrow. We’ve got 36 miles in two days coming up to Mike’s friend’s where we hope to get a shower, and maybe a place to sleep. It was extremely hot today as we dropped in elevation to under 400 feet to the Shenandoah River. I am dripping in my tent tonight.

July 8th – Harpers Ferry, WV to Dahlgren Backpack Campground, MD
Total miles on AT – 17.8
Elevation gain – 1716ft
Elevation loss – 1162ft. Arc
Start time: 7:00am
Finish time: 5:30pm
Total time hiking : 5:50
Weather: hot, less humid, slight breeze

Last night we camped at a secret campsite set up by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. It was brutally hot in my tent. There was no wind and I was just sweating my — off. I couldn’t sleep and tried to readjust the tent fly for more air flow around midnight, but it was not of much use.

Today we enjoyed breakfast in Harpers Ferry, skipped down Main Street, jaunted across the railroad bridge and a few miles along the C&O bike path along the river where I was told to “pay attention” by an oncoming biker, savored a lunch stop under a pavilion at Gathland State Park, took a gander at lots of historic Civil War memorials, reveled in a shower and feasted on trail magic of sandwiches, ice cream, and lemonade at Dahlgren Backpack Campground. I love the AT in Maryland!

I talked to a woman at Gathland State Park who was assisting her husband who was doing the 4-state challenge going southbound. The 4-state challenge is to walk in four states in one day on the AT – Pennsylvania, Maryland, West Virginia, and Virginia – a total of 43 miles. He is an ultra-marathon runner. He and his wife assisted Scott Jurek in northern New England last year as he broke the speed record for the AT in 46 days.

July 9th – Dahlgren Backpack Campground, MD to the Mason Dixon Line
Total miles on AT – 23.8
Elevation gain – 2200ft
Elevation loss – 1926ft
Start time: 7:45am
Finish time: 9:10pm
Total time hiking: 8:35
Weather: mostly sunny, pleasant, slight breeze

What another great day. We got in some good miles. Lots more state parks to walk through, and lots more road crossings including over I 70.

I caught up with Mike at the Washington Monument, obviously not the one that everyone knows in DC. Today was a bit more challenging than yesterday, especially a really rocky part right after a good climb near the end of the day. But I broke my PR – 23.8 miles. So glad I didn’t try to do the 4-state challenge.

We got to Pen Mar Park just south of the mason Dixon line where we ordered pizza and relaxed while we waited for Mike’s friend Cheetah, whom he met on the PCT. She brought us all sorts of goodies including what I’ve been talking about for days – grape soda! Thanks, Mike, for giving her the heads up! After watching the sunset from the park, Mike and I walked the third of a mile to the Mason Dixon line where Cheetah met us with the van that she lives in. We listened to and watched nearby fireworks which must have been in Hagerstown.

We had “wine on the line” where we literally sat on the Mason Dixon Line right on the trail chatting until 1am. Maryland has been great! A very nice 40+ miles in two days.

July 10th – Mason Dixon Line to Caledonia State Park
Total miles on AT – 18.3
Elevation gain – 1761ft
Elevation loss – 2067ft
Start time: 10:00am
Finish time: 7:05pm
Total time hiking: 6:25
Weather: sunny, warm

Mike’s friend Kim made breakfast for us this morning. – breakfast burritos and fresh fruit, and of course more grape soda! It got hot quick and we lounged around until Kim had to drive to work.

After 7 miles, Mike and I found a nice state park to eat our leftover pizza and take a nap. I felt surprising good throughout most of the day despite a big hiking day yesterday and a late night.

We met some folks who did the 4-state challenge a few days ago who were still recovering. They got into Harpers Ferry three days before us and now we’ve caught up. Snow White basically said she felt accomplished but that perhaps it wasn’t worth it. We did the same section in two days and put it another decent day today.

At the state park we met a Connecticut couple who invited us back to their campsite and shared a beer with us. They are both teachers and we had a nice time chatting. Mike and I are “stealth” camping in the park and hoping that the ranger leaves us alone.

This appears to be the park where we brought Blue Ridge kids almost two years ago to do an outdoor race.

Sleepy – off to sleep under the stars tonight.

July 11th – Caledonia State Park to 3.2 miles past Pine Grove Furnace State Park
Total miles on AT – 22.7
Elevation gain – 1742ft
Elevation loss – 2400ft-ish
Start time: 8:15am
Finish time: 8:55pm
Total time hiking: 7:50
Weather: sunny, warm, slight breeze

We woke up early to avoid any ranger that might have come through the the park and caught us sleeping there unpaid – it’s not our fault that the office closes at 3:30 in the afternoon! We took showers, had breakfast at a pavilion near the trail, and as we walked out of the park I recognized it more clearly as the park where we took the Blue Ridge kids for an outdoor race two years ago.

We started with a pretty steep 400-foot climb that Blue Ridge outdoor guide Cory Woods’s group of kids tried to walk up at the end of the race to get additional points, but they ran out of time. It took Mike and I twenty minutes to get to the top; I can only imagine what it took four out-of-shape 15 year-olds.

Then we came upon perhaps the nicest shelter on the trail. It had potted flowers and there were actually two shelters – one for snorers and one for non-snorers.

The terrain was generally flat, particularly during the middle of the day. We ran into trail magic delivered by a local couple halfway through the day. I came late, but still was able to get two burgers.

Then I passed the halfway point and got a picture. 88 days (73 hiking days) after I started, I’ve made it halfway!

I ran into Pish who was section hiking southbound and whom I haven’t seen in about 450 miles. Her dog Chef is off the trail because he has lupus. So sad.

I read in a trail register that Jem has completed her hike. Very sad to see her get off trail.

Mike and I made it to the Pine Grove Furnace General Store around 5pm, home of the half gallon challenge where you are supposed to finish a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting. I’m glad I didn’t do it; there wasn’t one person who felt good afterwards; besides, their quesadillas came highly recommended.

Mike drank a 56-ounce bottle of sweet tea and I had a hard time keeping up with him up the hill out of the park. We hiked till dark and did another 3.2 miles. A good solid day.

July 12th – 3.2 miles past Pine Grove Furnace State Park to a campsite just before Boiling Springs
Total miles on AT – 15.7
Elevation gain – 985ft
Elevation loss – 1746ft
Start time: 7:55am
Finish time: 4:40pm
Total time hiking: 6:00
Weather: sunny, hot, humid, slight breeze

A leisurely day. We had a wonderful breakfast five miles into the day at Green Mountain Store. Then we slowly made our way to Boiling Springs. We passed over farmland at the end of the day and I talked to the owner of the land who sold forty acres years ago to make way for the AT. Before he sold it, the trail ran along a road in the Cumberland Valley for 16 miles. We’re camped just before town. Gonna get a shower and something to eat in town.

July 13th – campsite just before Boiling Springs to
Total miles on AT – 22.0
Elevation gain – 1749ft
Elevation loss – 984ft
Start time: 7:15am
Finish time: 5:50pm
Total time hiking: 7:20
Weather: mostly cloudy, very warm, stupid humid, late afternoon thundershower.

Boiling Springs is a really nice town and I got an excellent breakfast at a coffee shop there. The first 15 miles were basically flat through the farmland of the Cumberland Valley with lots of road crossings including over Interstate 76.

I ran into Legs this morning and Teddy this afternoon. Nice to see people I know again. Hearing a lot about other people who have dropped off the trail and surprised by the number who have decided to do so this late.

Mike pointed out some folks at the campsite last night who appear to be fraudulent thru-hikers, and apparently this is pretty common. They have the gear and look the part and say they’re hiking but they’re not. They’re hitching and then walking into shelters or campsites from the road. In taking a closer look at them I could see it. They’re stuff is not nearly dirty or worn enough.

Why would be people do this? Well first off, there’s a lot of prestige that comes with thru-hiking and many perks like free food from strangers! But secondly, I mean it’s just a nice relaxing way to spend a summer. But lying about actually thru-hiking when you’re not? That’s so sketch. Mike mentioned that he questioned someone out on the PCT about being a fraud because his shoes had no wear and tear on them, and Mike still had to deal with personal attacks from this individual years later. Some people are strange.

Into Duncannon tomorrow for breakfast and taking the rest of the day off!