The Carretera Austral – January 26th

Can’t believe we are almost a month into 2017. Time sure does go by quickly. I left Vina Del Mar on Sunday the 22nd. When I got to Santiago, I took the metro to the Central Bus Station, but my bus never came. Turns out I was at the wrong bus station; I should have been at the South Station. I was able to catch a bus as far as Valdivia at no extra charge, and then bought a ticket there to Osorno. But from Osorno there were no more busses on that day to Bariloche. So I got a hotel room and by that evening I had decided to ditch going to Bariloche and head for Puerto Montt and the start of the Carretera Austral. I stayed two nights in Puerto Montt, an attractive small city located on the northern end of the Gulf of Ancud – geography lesson for all y’all.

Carretera Austral – km 24

Today I started walking down the Carretera Austral, a highway stretching from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins around 750 miles long. But this is not a typical highway. It traverses a very remote area, and there are three ferry crossings near the start. The going is slow, but the scenery is beautiful. I got a glimpse of the nearby Volcano Calbuco, snow-capped at just over 2000 metes. Another more distance mountain, perhaps Valcono Osorno at 2600 meters, loomed completely snow-covered in the distance. It’s very hard to believe that these mountains have snow on them because it was rather hot today. It’s really not the heat that is bothersome though, it’s just the strength of the sun. It’s like the sun when you’re at really high altitude; only I’m not at high altitude; I’m at sea level. I have heard that the ozone layer is thinner in Patagonia. The sun hit me from behind all afternoon as I walked south. My arms and legs were a crispy red by mid-afternoon despite the application of sunblock. I don’t know how my thighs turned red while facing south. (The sun is in the northern sky in the Southern Hemisphere.) There were villages every few miles or so. And the benches in dugout bus stops were good places to stop and get out of the sun. I’m going to have really cover up tomorrow.

I hiked 15 miles today and my feet are beat up. I need new insoles as my old ones have had it. I don’t have a glide stick for reducing friction like I did on the Appalachian Trail so my feet are very raw. I was able to find a place with camping, a real quant spot with a nice caretaker. There is a Spanish speaking biker couple here as well. It’s the first time back in my tent since my AT adventure. Sure is making me nostalgic.

I don’t know how I’ll manage with my feet tomorrow. It’s painful to walk on them. Not sure exactly what to do.

My travels are near an end as I’ve almost reached my two year travel budget. My recent thinking is that I’ll be back in the states in early April. Just a few more months. I’m very homesick. And I’m ready to put my travels behind me for now and start my life.

January 27th

Carretera Austral – km 100

It was misty this morning. I didn’t get too far before resting my feet in a bus stop dugout. It drizzled on and off. I’ve had dogs barking at me through fences for the past two days. But I spotted one up ahead who was not behind a fence and seemed poised to defend his territory with warning barks before he planted himself on the side of the road waiting for me to come into his poor eye-sighted view. So before there could be any confrontation, I hopped a bus 17km to La Arena. The sun came out in full force. I jumped on the thirty-minute ferry to Puelche and decided to sit in the shade for an hour or so to let the shadows set in. A vender told me where I could catch a bus and I climbed aboard the next one that came off the next ferry. I’ve been pleased with my anxiety on the modes of transportation today.

The bus ride down into Hornopiren was stunning, lots of snow capped mountains. Hornopiren is at kilometer 100 of the Carretera Austral. When I got off the bus, a woman asked if I needed camping. She led me to a younger man who drove me out to a river where others were already set up for the night. I got a ride back into town and sat in the back of a pick up with two young women from Concepcion. They helped me find new insoles for my boots. They had a fire going tonight and we chatted for a while. The stars are incredible.

January 28th

Carretera Austral – km 145

My ears, my ears, my ears! The ringing has gotten so loud. It’s very frustrating. I am camped near a river again but I can hear the ringing over the river. I have a hard time hearing as it is, but I can’t understand many Chileans because they speak so mumble jumble leaving out s’s everywhere.

I slept in late, well, because I’m dealing with some depression right now. Walked back into town to catch the ferry. I took out some money with my credit card, which I forgot I could do, so I’ll be okay on money till I pick up my new bank card in Coyhaique.

The ferry took 3 hours and was only $9. I had heard it was going to be 180 dollars! I’ve taken two other ferries and they haven’t even charged me. The busses are also very cheap. Three dollars yesterday for a ride over an hour long.

I walked half of the 10km between today’s first and second ferry ride before a free bus halted and backed up to pick me up. I didn’t wave it down or anything, it just stopped on its own. What service!

I’ve entered Pumalin Park. It was first created and preserved by an American millionaire. The only camping allowed is at designated spots in the park. There are quite a few others at this campsite, maybe 25 or so. I’ve yet to run into any native English speaker since I left Vina Del Mar. I met a couple from Europe today – she from Italy, he from France. Those are the only other “Westerners” I’ve met.

The views continue to be amazing, with glaciers atop many of the surrounding mountains. But I’ve become spoiled over the last year with Nepal, New Zealand, etc…and the views aren’t having quite the same affect on me.

I’ll be spending my 40th birthday alone in three days. I’m trying to do something cool that will be memorable. Thinking about climbing Volcano Chaiten, one that in recent years nearly wiped out all of the town nearest to it.

Jan 29

Carretera Austral – km 159

After yet another late start, I walked the 14km along the road to the next campsite. There were some decent hills. I’ve been accompanied by bees who buzz around me, particularly in sunny areas. They are about the size of bumble bees, maybe a little smaller, but instead of yellow they have an orangish-red coloring. I ran briefly into an older American couple as they were getting back into their car after a stop at a waterfall and I was desperate to connect with someone in the English language, but the bees were too much for them and they drove away.

They tell me that they sting. I didn’t think they would, but I had been taking no chances. They are pretty slow and easy to slap away. There are also other flies that look like deer flies but with more of a grey coloring. I stopped along the road and did a nature walk through old forest growth. The trees are thousands of years old. They are not quite as big as redwoods. They are covered with a mossy layering, and it kills the tree if you remove it.

Here at the campground, another trail led up to two different waterfalls. The woods are thick, and remind me of Nepali jungles. Lots of roots and wet areas and the park has built wood steps and steep and precarious stairways.

It’s raining tonight for the first time since I’ve been in Chile.

January 30th

Carretera Austral – km 173

My last day in my 30s. It rained through most of the night and then again this morning. But things dry out quickly here and the sun was out by the afternoon. It never really warmed up though. I walked the 14km along the road to El Volcan Campground. Some steep climbs along the way. I detoured out to Lago Negro, and stopped at Lago Blanco. I started to get great views of glaciers and of Volcano Chaiten, and the surrounding mountains. The trees around the volcano are dead for kilometers around. This is the volcano that erupted in 2008 burying the nearest town in ash.

I walked the interpretive trail at tonight’s campsite, and during the walk my mood lightened when I realized that there is a possibility that the herb I started taking for my anxiety three and a half weeks ago, called Kava, may be what’s making my tinnitus worse (ringing in the ears). It’s been really getting me down. And I had attributed the volume increase to a wedding I attended last month with a very loud band – I had forgotten my earplugs. Hope has a way of improving one’s state of mind. I started to find a good walking rhythm this afternoon and it’s possible that all the exercise might be improving my mood as well. So long 30s…

January 31st

Carretera Austral – km 211

A good birthday all in all and considering the circumstances. I had set my alarm for 6 AM to enjoy a full day but I don’t feel guilty at all for hitting the snooze button twelve or thirteen times. When I started to stir it was cloudy and a bit chilly. I walked about 8 kilometers to the base of Vulcan Chaiten. It was a 600 meter elevation gain and took about 3 hours round trip. A perfect birthday hike that hopefully I’ll remember for a long time.

I got a ride into town from a very nice Chilean couple. We had lunch together in Chaiten and before I could protest they paid the bill. I pleaded to pay my share but they implored me not to, and told me it was for my birthday. I can’t get over how nice people are here. I checked into a modest hotel room with a shared bath and had an excellent hot shower. Later I went out for pizza and beer. A good birthday indeed.